Wednesday, December 15, 2010

Hueco Day 7

"Daily Dick Dose"

Day 7 - North Mountain

Going out with John to North Mountain on this morning, we had ambitions to do more moderate climbs after falling off of 7's and 8's the previous day and feeling a bit worn down.....

....that theory lasted about ten minutes.

I started on the infamous "Lobster Claw". After blowing the flash attempt at the last couple moves, it was all down hill from there. This thing has cool moves and holds but is super polished from everyone and their mom trying this thing. I gave it a bunch of angry goes then took a nap in the sun for a while. Got back on, but still no dice.

"Staring down Lobster Claw"

We moved onto John's project of "Daily Dick Dose". Rocco and Mary got me a little more excited to try "Babyface" again. I was frustrated cause I couldn't work the crux moves and I felt the skin on my thumb slowly grinding away into numbness. Discouraged but getting a nice tan, John suggested we move onto actual moderates instead of regressing on projects.

I was able to salvage a day of no sends with an almost flash of "T-Bone Shuffle", an excellent problem that went on my 2nd attempt. We then moved onto the Kitchen area before leaving where I sent "Short Order Cook" with little issue. Just a low and small crimpy start to a weird/hard scoop then finish out.

Major thanks to John for keeping me positive and helping me send on an otherwise rough day.

"Johnny Flowers evil eye stare"

- Sends -
"T-Bone Shuffle" - V4
"Short Order Cook" - V6

- Attempts -
"Lobster Claw" - V5
"Babyface" - V7

2 comments:

John F said...

Awesome :)

Mr. J said...

Timoteo. Me gusta todas tus palabras. ¡Tengo mucho envidioso a tus aventuras!