Saturday, December 11, 2010

Hueco - Day 4/5

"Double Vision"

Day 4/5 - North Mountain

Since day 4 was a rest day I expected day 5 to be a decent day on North. Gustavo and I went out to meet up with a few friends but the warm weather turned us into lazy climbers. We sat underneath the Fern Roof baking in the sun. I worked Mexican Chicken again and instead sent the V3 that it linked into called 100 Proof Roof. Long top out and a bit scary as it turns into a slab.

"A proper 3ball Siesta"

While Gustavo continued with his siesta I hiked over to Daily Dick Dose and tried the toe instead of the heel or drop knee beta. After only 3 tries with the toe beta and the left hand intermediate the problem went easily. Felt like a problem for short people and I now understand how taller climbers might have issues scrunching up at the beginning.

"Jen cranking on Fern Roof"

Went over with some of the New Mexico kids to try "Double Vision". It's a beautiful problem that requires a few pads and even better spotters. Made the first couple moves before the 2 finger pockets worried my finger enough to bail on it.

Finished the day off climbing with my Canadian transient of a friend Joleen on "Girls of Juarez". A very cool roof problem which was just my style.

- Sends -
100 Proof Roof - V3
Girls of Juarez - V4 (flash)
Daily Dick Dose - V7

- Attempts -
Mexican Chicken - V6
Double Vision - V7

"Do your feet cut on Double Vision?"

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