Monday, December 20, 2010

Hueco Day - 11/12

"Brandon working SnakeCharmer"

Day 11/12 - East Mountain

After a rest day, I spent my last full day on tour with another great crew on East Mountain. Continuing with my goal of getting on only new problems, we found ourselves at "Snakecharmer". This is a cool problem with a little bit of a sketchy fall and some height to it. Jordan, Alex, and Mary all sent it and major kudos to them for sacking up.

Right behind it was the supposed 2star "Instant Classic"....after hiking it, I wasn't so sure the problem did the name justice.

"Sportrock sighting"

We worked our way back to the area that I had started by whole trip here so others could get on "Hobbit" and "Hector". There was another multiple starred problem to the immediate right of "Hector" called "Ides of March".

This one had some cool fluid start moves that went into a strong right hand pinch that required a strong layback into a long static finish with very small feet. On my second to last go I finally stuck the crux move and on my reach for the finish I missed the good part of the hold, came off the problem, and was feeling pumped. Bradon said, "Dude good go...oh shit your finger bro!"

"It's much worse under the skin"

I look down to see a solid purple/red flapper on my left pinky. I couldn't feel this thing because I was so pumped and my hand was kinda numb. I REALLY wanted to send this thing before I left so I told Brandon to just "tape me up" as though I was a prize fighter (I like that analogy because by no means am I as hardcore as a boxer) and he just wrapped up that flapper and I continued to bleed through 5 layers of tape.....I sent it next go. It wasn't that pleasant.

We ended the day working "UltraMega" which was a super cool long roof problem with multiple places to dab. This thing has amazing holds and I would love to project this thing next time with some skin actually left on my finger.

"Mary crankin Ultramega"

- Sends -
"Instant Classic" - V3
"Ides of March" - V6

- Attempts -
"Snakecharmer" - V7
"UltraMega" - V8